Susan Staley 12/28/18 Susan Staley 12/28/18

Hiking the Laugavegur Trail in Iceland

Last August I spent 4 days hiking the Laugavegur Trail in Southwest Iceland with my partner, Don. We had both been to Iceland before, so we had a pretty good idea of what to expect — rain, wind, cold, incredible landscapes, and for everything to be very expensive. All of our expectations were accurate, but the scenery in Laugavegur was beyond what we imagined. The diversity of landscape that you can experience in a single day is incredible and unlike any other place I have been.

There are no required permits for hiking the Laugavegur Trail (as of 2018), but we did need to plan our route and reserve our bus tickets in advance. Most people hike North to South, starting in Landmannalaugar and ending in Porsmork. We wanted to tack on a day from Skogar to Porsmork and preferred ending at the Landmannalaugar hot springs, so we ended up hiking from South to North, beginning at Skogar and ending in Landmannalaugar.

We booked our bus tickets from Reykjavik to Skogar for the same day that we arrived in Iceland. Luckily there were no flight delays and we were able to skip into town, store a bag of clean clothes at the hostel we had booked for our return to Reykjavik, purchase some eggs, and track down gas for our pocket stove. (We ended up finding a few cans of leftover gas at the hostel. Thanks to whomever left those!) We brought most of our food with us from the States (dehydrated meals, dried fruit, peanut butter, chocolate, and salty snacks).

Skogar to Porsmork

The 25 km/15 mile hike from Skogar to Porsmork, also known as the Fimmvorouhals Route, was challenging but stunning. We hiked past waterfalls, over glaciers, and ended up in a lush green valley — all in a single day! It was a long day, but we were so glad that we extended the trek to include that section.

Glacier Crossing on the Fimmvorouhals Route

There are mountain huts along the Laugavegur Trail where you can cook and use the facilities, or pay for a bed and hot shower. If you plan to stay in huts, you should book in advance. We planned to camp and for the most part were totally comfortable sleeping outside in our 2 person tent. On arrival at Porsmork we set up our tent to find that the window had fallen off sometime the night before / that morning. Luckily, we noticed the piece of plastic on the ground as we were packing up that morning, and I stuffed it into our empty bag of pad thai turned trash bag (thinking it was someone else’s garbage). Also, luckily I came prepared with a needle and some thread (thanks Girl Scouts!).

I took advantage of the facilities available at Porsmork and enjoyed a 3 minute hot shower for $5. Since Porsmork can be reached by bus or 4 x 4 it has more facilities than any of the other mountain huts. There was even an indoor area with picnic tables where we would cook, eat, and hang out with other hikers. We both agreed that if we were to return we might spend more time exploring Porsmork.

Porsmork to Emstrur

From Porsmork we hiked 16 km / 10 miles to Emstrur. We took our time, stopping to admire the views along the valley. We had our first river crossing this day. I was not a believer in the necessity of trekking poles until this trip. Fortunately, Don got a nice pair of super light Gossamer Gear trekking poles last year and was generous enough to share one with me. If you plan to do the Laugavegur Trail, I suggest you at least rent or borrow a pair of trekking poles. I found even just one pole was helpful when crossing the rivers (which were no deeper than my knees). We really took our time this day, in part because there were really nice views and we were pretty worn out from walking 15 miles the day before.

View on the walk from Porsmork to Emstrur, just after the first river crossing.

We arrived at Emstrur in time to grab one of the few remaining flat tent spots. Camping is restricted to the area around each mountain hut and costs 2000 ISK / 15 USD per person per night to camp. We noticed that other campers were putting rocks along the outside of their tents, so we did the same. We were glad we did because it was extremely windy that night and the rocks helped to shield us a bit and kept our tent from flying away.

Emstrur to Alftavatn

The 15 km / 9.3 mile hike from Emstrur to Alftavatn felt much easier than the previous 2 days because the elevation gain was significantly less. However, we had the worst weather of our trip on this day. We were pretty positive about it though because we had been expecting wind and rain every day. We stopped at Havanngil Hut for lunch and were disappointed to find the hut was closed for cleaning. There is another river crossing just before Havanngil and the water left my legs and feet with pins and needles, so we were wet, cold, and hungry at this point. The ranger directed us to the upstairs of a barn if we wanted to eat indoors and dry off. We obliged and hung out with some Czech travelers for a bit as we ate the rest of our peanut butter and pitas (we wished we had taken more). We decided the weather wasn’t getting much better, so we slipped back into our wet clothes and continued the remaining 4 km / 2.5 miles to Alftavatn.

Inside the barn attempting to dry out and warm up with other trekkers

We probably looked hilarious trying to set up our tent with the wind whipping about at 35 mph. We managed to get it set up and secured and both decided to splurge on hot showers. After our showers we retired to our tent for a few hours inside our sleeping bags. When the weather cleared up enough we decided to venture out and see what was on the menu at the teeny tiny lakeside restaurant. We were delighted to find a warm, cozy cafe with sweet treats and even full meals. We were on a pretty strict budget, but were happy to pay $12 for a can of beer just to be able to sit in a warm, dry space. We met some fellow Americans, a family of 5 with kids between 9 - 13 years old who were hiking the opposite direction. The kids seemed to be enjoying themselves, though they were all snuggled in pjs and eating chocolate muffins at that point.

The weather continued to be pretty wet and windy throughout the night, but we managed to sleep well enough since we were worn out from hiking. When we woke up though the weather had totally cleared and we got to enjoy a nice sunny breakfast by the lake.

After a leisurely breakfast and some sun which helped dry out our clothes, we headed out. It was a gentle climb for the first few miles, with a smaller river crossing. We took water sandals for the river crossings. I considered taking flip flops to save weight, but that would have been a bad idea as sometimes the river is a bit swift. I suggest a pair of water shoes or sandals that strap to your feet and have good traction on the soles. See the end of the post for a detailed packing list.

After the first few miles we came to the big climb of the day. Everyone coming down was dressed like they were going skiing and we were almost in only base layers. We weren’t quite sure what to expect at the top of the hill…

There is a long climb out from Lake Alftavatn, but a stunning view!

When we reached the top of the big climb, not only were we rewarded with this stunning view of the lake, but we also saw what lay ahead - steaming sulfur pools bubbling up from the ground, neon green algae growing on volcanic rock sprinkled with snow. It felt like we had stepped onto another planet!

We had planned to hike just to Hrafntinnusker from Lake Alftavatn 12 km / 7.5 miles, but when we arrived at Hrafntinnusker the ranger suggested we continue on to Landmannalaugar (another 7.5 miles). There are not many facilities at Hrafntinnusker and it is right on a sandy ridge which tends to get a lot of wind. We heard from other trekkers coming the opposite direction that it was not a very comfortable night’s sleep. We took everyone’s advice and continued on to Landmannalaugar.

The 15 miles this day would have been more difficult had it not been our favorite day of the trek. There is no other way to describe it than otherworldly. We hiked up and over mountains, past geysers, hot springs (too hot for swimming), and over another glacier. It was truly incredible. My dogs were barking pretty loudly by the descent into Landmannalaugar. Knowing that a hot spring was my reward helped me to persevere, and oh what a sweet reward it was!

After a soak in the hot springs and one more dehydrated meal, we zonked out. Our bus didn’t depart until after lunch the following afternoon, so we slept in, took another dip in the hot springs and had lunch before boarding the bus back to Reykjavik.

What we packed

3 pair quick dry underwear
3 pair merino wool socks
2 pair gloves (one thin merino layer + a thicker ski type glove)
2 pair long underwear (1 lightweight pair + 1 merino lined tights)
1 pair fleece paints
1 pair quick dry trekking pants
Beanie/warm hat
Merino ear warmer headband
Neck Warmer
Cap/hat for sun
Rain Jacket
Rain Pants
3/4 zip merino wool top
3/4 zip fleece top
Nano puffy jacket
2 short sleeved merino wool tees + 1 long sleeved
Down sleeping bag
Sleeping Pad + Down pillow
Quick Dry Towel
Dr. Bronner’s Bar Soap
2 Nalgene Water Bottles (You can drink directly from the streams in Iceland)
Camping Meal Set (bowl, cup, spork)
Pocket Stove
Lightweight pot for boiling water for cooking
6 dehydrated dinners and 2 dehydrated breakfasts* (We were hungry and wished we had taken 8+ dinners)
Salty Snacks
2 packs trail mix
2 packs dried mango
10 Cliff Bars
Peanut Butter (8 oz.) * We wanted more
6 Eggs
10 packs oatmeal
Flatbread
Dark Chocolate
2 person tent
Chaco Sandals for river crossings
Headlamp

Don’t forget to pack out EVERYTHING you bring in!

Try to avoid going #2 outside. There are toilets at the huts.

Follow the guidelines, listen to the rangers, and tread lightly.

What we spent $

WOW Air flights $330 roundtrip pp + baggage fees
Bus to/from airport $60 pp
Roundtrip bus passes to start and from end of trail $130 pp
2 nights at hostel in Reykjavik in a private room $200 p/n
Camping x 3 nights $15 pp
Showers on trail $5 x 3
Food brought from US $90
Food in Iceland $100 pp
Total $965

Susan Staley 8/8/18 Susan Staley 8/8/18

Managing Money During Your Gap Year

Be frugal but don't obsess over every dollar. Don't miss out on once in a lifetime opportunities. When in situations where bargaining is culturally appropriate, bargain, but consider the significance of that amount of money to you compared to the person with whom you are bargaining.

My love of travel over the years has taught me to be smart about managing money. I made some mistakes early on (ie. not understanding exchange rates and drastically overpaying for souvenirs). Yeah, they were learning experiences, and that is part of a gap year -- you are free to make mistakes and learn from them. Another core lesson I learned from traveling: heed the advice of people who have been there before me. Hopefully some of the lessons I learned throughout my years of traveling can help you to save some money and make smart financial choices during your gap year.

Make a Budget (and stick to it!)

How much money will you need for basic necessities (food, lodging, transportation)? I have found the Lonely Planet budget suggestions (Divided by: Budget, Midrange, Top End) to be pretty accurate. Figure out which category suits your travel style, and multiply that by the number of days you plan to travel in that region. ie. $30 per day in South America will mean you can expect to stay in hostels, prepare most of your own food or eat at inexpensive local markets, and walk or take public transportation.

Keep track of your expenses and if you accidentally go over one day, expect to cut back your expenses another day to make up for it. If you have trouble sticking to your budget, try only taking enough money with you that you have allotted for that day. Store your remaining money securely in a locker in your hostel. If there is no locker, or if you are in a private room, stash your extra cash and valuables inside a backpack or bag with zippers. Lock the zippers to one another with a small combo lock.

There will undoubtedly be excursions or more costly activities you'll want to participate in during your gap year. If you can swing it, add an extra cushion to your budget for that Amazon experience or trek to Machu Picchu. Plan ahead so you don't have to miss out on a once in a lifetime opportunity. Research companies (or ask your gap year advisor for recommendations) to ensure you get good experience from your investment.

If you are already on a shoestring budget, consider looking into work or volunteer opportunities that might subsidize your housing and food costs for a portion of your gap year. Authentic encounters where you get to spend meaningful time with locals are often the most memorable parts of a gap year experience. You'll be able to save up cash that you can use for the more "touristy" parts of your gap year.

Me during a week volunteering at an elephant conservation center in Thailand

Accessing Cash

Traveling with up to $200 cash in newer bills as a back up fund is a good plan, especially if you are traveling independently. Though I do not recommend bringing all of your budget in cash. You run the risk of having it stolen, plus you will waste money on exchange fees each time you exchange USD to local currencies. No matter where you go, you will see money exchange businesses that advertise "no commission" or "no exchange fees". This is not true! Do not be deceived. Currency exchangers make money by giving you an unfavorable exchange rate. The exchange rates offered at currency exchange booths are rarely, if ever, competitive to those offered by banks when you withdraw cash from an ATM.

Bring a debit card with a chip to withdraw local currency from ATMs. Visa tends to be the most widely accepted, though MasterCard is also an option. I typically recommend participants also bring a back up credit card (Visa or MasterCard with a chip) for emergencies (or in case the debit card is lost, stolen, or does not work). Be aware of the fees that your bank charges for accessing an ATM that is not affiliated with your bank, as well as foreign transaction fees and conversion fees. These can really add up. I suggest withdrawing larger amounts (no less than the local currency equivalent of $100) to minimize the frequency of your withdraws and fees assessed by your bank.

If you plan to do a lot of traveling, or for a long period of time, you might consider opening a checking account with Charles Schwab or Fidelity. Both offer checking accounts linked to brokerage or mutual funds with free ATM withdraws worldwide.

Store your extra cash and backup credit card separate from your debit card and money you have allotted to spend for the next few days. If something is lost or stolen you will have a backup plan. Many debit and credit cards now come with access to block your cards via your online account. If you can't do this, be sure you have the account numbers and international customer service numbers noted somewhere so that you can immediately report the loss if this happens.

Ways to Stretch Your $$$

Take a re-usable water bottle (and Steripen if you won't be able to drink the tap water)
Bring your water bottle with you, always
Minimize your alcohol consumption (alcoholic beverages are often as expensive as a meal)
Travel like locals (bus, subway, bicycle, by foot) Only take taxis when necessary or for safety
Stay in hostels or locally owned guesthouses
Bring a quick dry towel and combo lock to avoid having to rent them
Eat like locals / Shop at local markets and cook your own food
Avoid touristy areas for meals (quality is usually poor and prices are inflated)

Susan Staley 10/3/17 Susan Staley 10/3/17

Weekend in Switzerland

I’m not sure why I waited so long to return to Switzerland, but my weekend visit this fall is certainly not going to be my last! People are always asking me which country is my favorite. I tend to have different categories - favorite place for food, outdoor adventure, beach, nightlife, etc. New Zealand, Chile, and the U.S. are among my favorites for outdoor exploration. Switzerland just gave them all a run for their money though - The Jungfrau region is by far the cleanest place I have ever visited (I saw one piece of liter the entire time) plus it is super accessible with public transportation.

I traveled by train from Paris to Interlaken and then from Interlaken to Florence. If you are studying abroad or planning to travel to either place, Interlaken is easy to get to while still being scenic enough to give you a break from the hustle and pollution of the cities. I stayed three nights at an Airbnb in Interlaken. Staying at an Airbnb is one great way to save money, plus I got some great tips from my host. There was a mini-fridge in the room, so I was able to buy groceries for breakfast, snacks, and store left overs. My host provided me with a discount card for travel within the region as well. You will need to take regional trains for day trips into the mountains.

Interlaken was a great home base for exploring the Jungfrau region. You can easily catch a train to surrounding mountain towns. My first full day I took the train to Lauterbrunnen (recommended by my Airbnb host). It was only a 20 minute train ride and return trip cost 11.40 CHF (including a discount with my Eurail pass). You can purchase a ticket at the ticket office in advance or on the train. Be sure to carry some cash with you, if you plan to purchase tickets on board the train or bus. I didn’t have much of a plan, so I allowed myself to become entranced with the beauty of the valley and kept walking what seemed like the entire length of the valley. There are waterfalls along the mountainside and farms selling fresh cheese in vending machines. It was a mostly flat walk from the train station through the Lauterbrunnen Valley to Stechelberg (you can also take a bus).

At Stechelberg I hopped on a cable car up to Murren (8.60 CHF one way). I explored the village, took in the dramatic views from above, grabbed a picnic lunch at a small grocery store, and then decided to walk back down into the valley. The walk from Murren to Gimmelwald is stunning and on a paved path that only takes 30 minutes. If you are fit and enjoy walking, I recommend walking all the way down to the valley. The walk from Gimmelwald to Stechelberg took about 1 1/2 hr (all down hill) on well maintained and marked hiking trails. In Stechelberg I caught a bus (5.40 CHF) back to the Lauterbrunnen train station. This whole day trip took me around 7 hours, though I stoped to take LOTS of photos.

My second full day I took the train from Interlaken to Grindelwald. Grindelwald is about 30 minutes from Interlaken and a roundtrip train ticket cost 18 CHF (with a Eurail pass holder discount). From Grindelwald I decided to walk up to Bort, a steep climb of about one hour on a paved path with stunning views of the town and surrounding snowcapped mountains. You also have the option of taking a cable car to Bort, or further up the mountain to First. At First you can also rent mountain carts to ride down to Bort. This whole region is very touristed, but many tourists don't go far from the cable cars, so you can still enjoy some serene wilderness if you choose to walk rather than ride up and down in the cable car. There are signs at regular intervals and the towns are so small it is really difficult to get lost.

After having a picnic lunch in Bort, rather than following the paved path up to First, I veered off to a wilderness trail and meandered up the mountain a bit further before returning to Grindelwald via different wilderness trails. I didn't really have much of a plan, just went where the views guided me and I was not disappointed. Happy trails!